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Kamakura

The samurai center of power of Japan during from the late twelfth to the fourteenth century was Kamakura, located on the coast and easy travelling distance from Tokyo. Kamakura is famous for its many Zen Buddhist temples, for it was in this small town that this meditative Buddhism imported from Sung dynasty China flourished under the support of the warrior caste, who found in its strict practices a fitting complement to their samurai code of behavior.

Engaku-ji, Kamakura
Engaku-ji, Kamakura
Garden, Meigetsuin, Kamakura
Garden, Meigetsuin
Meigetsuin, Kamakura
Meigetsuin

We will begin our exploration of Kamakura at Engakuji, the Rinzai sect Zen temple said to have been founded in 1282 in memory of soldiers who had lost their lives turning back Mogul forces from their attempted invasion of Japan. Being a small town set amongst forested hills most sites in Kamakura are within easy reach by bus or foot and from Engakuji we will take a short walk to Meigetsuin (‘Bright Moon Hermitage’), a small Buddhist temple founded in 1160 and famous for its gardens of hydrangea flowers.

Jōchiji Temple
Jōchiji Temple

Close to Meigetsuin is Jōchiji. Founded in 1253 Jōchiji is one of Kamakura’s five great Zen temples. Zen temples such as Jōchiji were not only religious centers, but with the support of the ruling shoguns were also important places of learning and art. For this reason the samurai patronised monasteries and practiced Zen.

Built in 1253 Kenchōji is the oldest Zen training monastery in Japan and the first of the five great Kamakura Zen temples. It is about ten minutes walk from Jōchiji. The Main Gate (Sanmon), shown here, was built in 1754. Legend has it that a badger transformed himself into a monk in order to raise money for its construction. For this reason it is referred to as Tanuki Mon, or ‘Badger’s Gate’.

Genji Pond, Tsurugaoka Hachimangū
Genji Pond, Tsurugaoka Hachimangū
 Tsurugaoka Hachimangū, Kamakura
Tsurugaoka Hachimangū
 Sanmon, Kenchōji, Kamakura
Sanmon, Kenchōji

Kamakura Daibutsu

In close proximity to the main Kamakura station is Tsurugaoka Hachimangū Shintō shrine. Hachiman is one of the most revered deities in the Shintō pantheon and throughout Japan there are many shrines dedicated to him. The Hachiman Shrine at Kamakura is one of Japan’s most prestigious. The lively atmosphere in and around this important shrine is in sharp contrast to the quiet repose felt at the Zen temples.

Completed in 1252 the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is one of Kamakura’s iconic sites. This giant 11.4 metre cast bronze statue sits in the open but was once housed in a great hall that was destroyed by a tsunami in 1495. It offers an interesting contrast to another Daibutsu in Nara, which we will visit later, as the Nara work was said to have inspired its counterpart in Kamakura. Representing Amida Buddha, the Buddha of Mercy the tranquility of this sculpture is aptly complemented by the beauty of the surrounding wooded hills of Kamakura.

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